Claire Turnbull looks at the growing array of wellbeing beverages and asks if they're worth their high price.
In recent years, you may have noticed a change in the landscape of your local supermarket. Where once there were just bottles of water, soft drinks and energy drinks, there are now whole sections of drinks that have a wellbeing-inspired vibe. Kombucha, probiotic drinks, kefir, immunity shots, matcha lattes, brain-boosting “nootropic” drinks and more...
But as appealing as they may look, with beautiful branding and enticing words such as “natural”, “gut-loving”, “focus” and “immunity” splashed across the packaging, most of them aren’t cheap. So, what health benefits are you actually getting for your money? Let’s look at some of the most popular ones.
Kombucha
While kombucha has a long history as a home-brewed fermented tea, its popularity has really kicked off commercially in New Zealand in the last 10 to 15 years. A friend of mine set up one of the first businesses making kombucha at the start of the craze here, and since then, the number of brands has skyrocketed, with options and flavours galore.
Kombucha is typically made with either black or green tea, which is fermented with sugar and a very funny-looking thing called a SCOBY, which stands for a Symbiotic Culture Of Bacteria and Yeast.
Kombucha is often promoted for gut health, digestion and immunity because of the live microbes and fermentation compounds it contains. But in reality, human research specifically looking at kombucha and these benefits is still limited. Also, the amount and type of microbes that exist in different products can vary hugely, so we cannot assume that all kombuchas will have the same effects.
That said, kombucha is often a lower-sugar option than many other sugar-sweetened fizzy beverages, and it contains polyphenols from the tea, along with organic acids and other compounds created during fermentation. So, if you enjoy it, go ahead. If you are new to it, however, don’t dive straight into a large bottle. You may need to build up gradually, so your gut doesn’t go too wild!
Do, however, be mindful that some products contain considerably more sugar than others, which can add up if you are drinking kombucha regularly. Also, be aware that those with no sugar may contain sweeteners, which is something to weigh up in your decision-making, particularly if you have IBS. Some sweeteners and sugar alcohols can cause wind, bloating or diarrhoea in sensitive people.
Being acidic, kombucha is also something to avoid sipping slowly over a long period as, like all acidic drinks, it can damage your tooth enamel. Kombucha made from tea also contains caffeine, so the time of day you have it is something to consider, as having caffeine too late can affect the quality of your sleep.
Caffeine is also something to be mindful of during pregnancy and before offering kombucha to children. If you are pregnant, New Zealand food-safety guidance recommends choosing pasteurised kombucha and avoiding raw or unpasteurised versions. Kombucha can also contain a small amount of alcohol as a natural result of fermentation, so check the label if this is relevant to you.
If you want to avoid the price tag on kombucha, it is possible to make it yourself at home. I have been brewing it for over eight years. With six tea bags, sugar, and my SCOBY, I can make several litres a week. If you give it a go, follow a trusted recipe, pay careful attention to hygiene, and discard the batch if you see any mould. Also be aware home-brewed kombucha can also contain more alcohol than commercial versions.
Kefir
Kefir is another fermented drink, traditionally made by adding kefir grains (a community of bacteria and yeasts) to milk. The resulting drink provides protein and calcium alongside live cultures.
Fermentation breaks down some of the naturally occurring sugar in milk called lactose, too, so some people find kefir easier to tolerate than milk, although it is not necessarily lactose-free.
Water kefir also exists, which contains live cultures and can be enjoyed in a similar way to kombucha. However, it does not provide the protein and calcium found in milk kefir.
As with other fermented foods, such as sauerkraut, kimchi, miso and tempeh, the number and types of live microbes in kefir can vary, along with how well they survive the journey through the digestive system. But live microbes aren’t the only potential goodies. Kefir also contains other compounds created during fermentation, including organic acids and, in milk kefir, potentially beneficial peptides produced from milk proteins.
So, kefir is definitely something to feel good about enjoying. If fermented foods like kefir are new to you, or you have a sensitive gut, start with a small amount and build up gradually.
Like kombucha, kefir is also possible to make at home, but it does require more admin. I found myself needing to feed my kefir grains like another child and ended up with more than I knew what to do with! It was still a fun experiment, so if you have the time, it is well worth giving it a go.
Matcha
Matcha can make almost anything look beautiful on social media, but what is behind that striking green colour?
It is made from shade-grown green tea leaves ground into a powder, so you consume the whole leaf. It provides polyphenols, which are naturally occurring plant compounds with antioxidant activity, caffeine and L-theanine, an amino acid found naturally in tea. This combination may modestly support alertness and attention, but in reality, caffeine is likely to provide much of the lift, with some research suggesting L-theanine may complement its effects by helping soften some of caffeine's stimulating effects. This may contribute to matcha feeling like a smoother source of energy than coffee for some people.
Matcha often contains less caffeine than coffee, although this depends on how each is made. It has become increasingly popular as an alternative hot drink, but it is not caffeine-free, so timing matters if sleep is an issue.
When it comes to matcha, what matters most is what comes with it. Some matcha latte powders list sugar first, and café versions may include sweetened syrups, so check what you are buying. Remember, 4g of sugar is equal to around one teaspoon.
There are also different qualities of matcha, which come with different price tags. “Ceremonial grade” is generally considered the premium option, but it is not a regulated health standard and tells you more about flavour, texture and colour than guaranteed health benefits.
Personally, I am not a matcha lover in drinks, but it does have some nutritional value, so I often sprinkle half a teaspoon of the unsweetened powder on my breakfast for a pop of colour and beneficial goodies.
Probiotic sodas
These are some of the newer kids in the health and functional drink section. They are typically low-sugar sodas with added probiotics and sometimes prebiotic fibre, too. Unlike traditionally fermented drinks, bacteria are usually added to a fizzy base rather than being naturally present through fermentation.
Probiotics are, by definition, “live microorganisms that, when administered in adequate amounts, confer a health benefit on the host.” It is important to note, however, that their effects are specific to the strain and dose, as well as the health issue being studied.
Different strains do different things. For example, the probiotic strain Lactobacillus rhamnosus GG has evidence for helping reduce the risk of loose number twos associated with taking antibiotics, while Bifidobacterium longum 35624 may help improve symptoms such as pain and bloating in some people with IBS.
These drinks often use shelf-stable, spore-forming bacteria, such as particular strains of Bacillus coagulans, because they are better able to survive processing and storage. So, don’t assume that one can will “balance” your gut microbes or transform your gut health. There is a much bigger picture at play here.
Most prebiotic fibres found in these drinks are types of carbohydrate that resist digestion and are used as a food source by microbes living in your gut in a way that benefits health. Their addition to a drink may be a useful extra, but they are by no means a replacement for a food-first approach. Aim to get most of your fibre and naturally occurring prebiotics from fruits, vegetables, wholegrains, legumes, nuts and seeds.
As with other drinks containing added live microbes or prebiotic fibre, suddenly having a large amount at once may cause excess wind, bloating or discomfort, so it can be sensible to ease yourself in.
It is also worth remembering that gut health is about much more than adding fermented drinks, probiotics, or supplements. The foundations still matter most: eating a varied, fibre-rich diet, moving regularly and looking after your sleep and stress.
And if you have gut issues causing ongoing discomfort, a persistent change in bowel habits or other concerning symptoms, a drink isn’t going to solve the underlying issue. Some products may actually make your symptoms worse, so seek advice from your GP, an NZ Registered Dietitian or an NZ Registered Nutritionist with expertise in this area.
Nootropic or “brain” drinks
Nootropic drinks are marketed for focus, calm, memory, or mental performance. They may contain caffeine, L-theanine, vitamins, fruit extracts, or botanical ingredients.
These drinks are a mixed bag. Some ingredients have reasonable evidence at particular doses, and a few finished drinks have early, promising research. But small improvements in selected tests are not the same as a dramatic everyday brain boost.
Caffeine may explain much of the short-term increase in alertness. Vitamins support normal brain function but extra does not necessarily help if you already get enough.
It is also worth checking the total caffeine content, particularly if you are having coffee, tea, or energy drinks during the same day. Some botanical ingredients may interact with medications, including blood thinners, antidepressants, thyroid medications, and medicines for diabetes or blood pressure. Check the label and ask your pharmacist if you are unsure.
If you enjoy them, again, go ahead, but please do not be under the illusion that one drink a day is the difference between having a healthy brain or not. The bigger picture is much more relevant: quality sleep, adequate movement, nourishing food, social connection, keeping your brain active and challenged, and limiting alcohol.
So, are they worth it?
It depends on what the drink replaces, what you expect from it, and how much you enjoy it. A low-sugar kombucha or probiotic soda instead of a sugary soft drink may be a helpful swap. If it is replacing water, you may decide it is more of an enjoyable treat than a nutritional necessity.
There is also nothing wrong with choosing one simply because you enjoy it. I do. Just keep its claims, contents and cost in perspective. A drink does not need to promise better digestion, immunity, or brain power to be a good choice. Most of the time, humble water remains hard to beat.
Claire Turnbull is a registered nutritionist with an honours degree in dietetics, a wellbeing educator and author.
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