Feed a crowd without breaking the bank: Alice Taylor shares tips on cooking dried pasta to perfection and creating simple, nourishing sauces, just like they do in Italy.
This column marks the last of the Italian series before my partner and I head back to New Zealand. I thought I’d finish with two of the easiest and arguably most iconic pasta dishes there are.
The recipes are below, but before that, I wanted to explore some of the simplest ways to ensure you make the most of bought dried pasta. It's a quick, reliable and relatively cheap staple in so many of our pantries. What techniques do we need to apply to get the best results?
Why salt the pasta water?
Salting the water doesn’t just improve the flavour of the pasta, it also affects its structure, strengthening the proteins and limiting the gelatinisation of starch. In practical terms, that means your pasta is less likely to overcook and won’t end up with that gluey texture once drained.
How much salt should I add?
The general rule is about 10g of salt for every litre of water, roughly two tablespoons for a standard pot.
Don’t add oil to the pasta water
Contrary to popular belief, all adding water does is coat the pasta in a film of oil, which makes it harder for the sauce to cling properly.
Use plenty of water
And you want the pasta water to stay at a rolling boil. If the temperature drops too much, the pasta cooks unevenly and can turn sticky.
The final step: mantecatura
This is the technique that gives Italian pasta sauces their silky, creamy texture without adding cream. It’s the process of combining the pasta with fat and starchy pasta water to create an emulsion.
How to achieve mantecatura
Before draining the pasta, reserve a cup of pasta water. Better yet, rather than draining your pasta in a sieve or colander use one of those spaghetti spoons to transfer it directly from your cooking pot into the sauce.
For your sauce, start with about ¼ cup of pasta water for 200g of pasta, along with a couple of spoonfuls of fat, either olive oil or butter. Then mix vigorously until the sauce turns glossy and creamy. You may need a little more water or fat as you go, so adjust by eye.
And finally, let the pasta sit in its sauce for a minute before serving.
Now that you’re basically an expert in pasta, let’s put these techniques into practice with two classics: ragù alla Bolognese and pasta pomodoro. Both recipes come from my partner Orjon, who is Italian-Albanian and happens to be the best chef I know.
Recipe: Ragù alla Bolognese
Every household in Italy has a slightly different ragù recipe. This is the version my boyfriend makes, and it’s the most common style where he’s from, Romagna, which is pretty much the spiritual home of fresh pasta and ragù. Trust me, you can’t go wrong with this one.
Serves: 8–10,; Cost: approximately NZ$24; Prep time: 3 hours 30 minutes (30 minutes prep + 3 hours simmering)
INGREDIENTS
1kg beef mince
500g pork mince
4 medium brown onions, finely chopped
3 medium carrots, finely chopped
4 sticks celery, finely chopped
300g tomato paste
20g olive oil
15g salt
Generous amount of black pepper
Water, as needed
Optional: red or white wine for deglazing
METHOD
Heat the olive oil in a very large, heavy-based pot over high heat.
Add the chopped onions, carrots and celery (the soffritto) and cook, stirring often, until softened and lightly golden.
Add all of the minced meat, salt and a generous amount of black pepper. Stir continuously, breaking up any large lumps, until the meat is fully cooked and has absorbed its juices.
Once the meat starts to brown, add the tomato paste and cook for another couple of minutes.
Optional step: deglaze the pot with a splash of wine, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom. Let the alcohol cook off for a minute.
Cover the meat mixture completely with water. Bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low.
Let the ragù simmer gently, uncovered, for at least three hours, stirring occasionally. If it becomes too dry at any point, simply add a little more water.
The ragù is ready when the flavours have deepened and the sauce is rich and thick. Taste and adjust the seasoning if needed.
Recipe: Pasta pomodoro
I firmly believe store-bought pasta sauce is an absolute waste of money disguised as a convenience product. I promise this recipe is easier than trying to open one of those jars that always somehow feel welded shut.
INGREDIENTS
2 tins (800g total) whole peeled tomatoes
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced or crushed
Chilli flakes, to taste (optional)
20g olive oil
20g butter (optional, but highly recommended)
Large pinch of salt
Fresh basil or dried oregano (optional)
METHOD
Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over low heat. Add the garlic and chilli flakes, if using, and cook gently for 2–3 minutes until fragrant. Be careful not to let it brown.
Add the tinned tomatoes, including the juice, and a generous pinch of salt. Bring to a simmer, breaking up the tomatoes with a wooden spoon.
Cook for 7–10 minutes to let the flavours meld together.
Remove from the heat and stir through the butter, along with any herbs if using.
Use a stick blender to blend the sauce directly in the pot until smooth. Alternatively, leave it chunky if you prefer.
Taste and adjust the seasoning.
Chef Alice Taylor posts cooking videos as @alicetayloreats on Instagram, Facebook, YouTube and TikTok.
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