Autumn brings a brief abundance that we can capture and enjoy throughout winter. Alice Taylor explains how she does it.
The end of summer has arrived, and with it comes that familiar shift in the kitchen. The berries aren’t quite as sweet (or cheap), the tomatoes start to lose their punch, and the price of capsicums begins its steady climb.
My partner's a chef so, as you can imagine, we talk about food a lot. One of the biggest differences we’ve noticed between how we grew up cooking is seasonality. In Italy, where he’s from, buying out-of-season produce is almost unthinkable. You cook what’s growing. You wait for the rest.
I can’t speak for everyone in New Zealand – but I've on more than one occasion reached for a capsicum in the middle of winter, only to find myself standing at the checkout wondering why I just paid a small fortune for something that I'll later learn tastes faintly of nothing.
The truth is, if we want flavour and affordability, we have to work with the seasons; and sometimes get a little organised before they change.
It sounds obvious, but if you haven't been raised with it, it’s surprisingly easy to forget. When produce is locally abundant, it’s cheaper, has more nutrients, tastes better. Not to mention, eating locally grown food over food flown in from across the globe is far better for the planet.
Step one: Know what’s in season
Most of us have at least a vague idea about which fruits and vegetables roll around when. If in doubt there are sources available online – the most comprehensive chart I've seen, covering every piece of produce and which months it's at its best in Aotearoa, is on the 5aday.co.nz site.
It also pays to just note what's been grown in New Zealand in the supermarket and to walk straight past those priceless oranges from the United States. Price is often the best indicator of what's most naturally abundant – the lower the better.
Step two: Prepare for your winter cravings
If you’re anything like me you know you’ll be longing for a taste of summer in July. But the answer isn’t paying $6 for a tired-looking capsicum. It’s preserving and fermenting,
Fermentation might sound intimidating, but it’s simply a traditional way of preserving food using salt and time. It’s affordable, delicious, and brilliant for gut health.
In winter, we ferment big jars of cabbage for sauerkraut. It’s far cheaper than buying it pre-made and goes well with everything from roasted meats to sandwiches.
In summer, we turn to eggplant and even green tomatoes – perfect for using up what’s left in the garden before clearing beds for the next crop.
The process is straightforward and there are excellent resources online to guide safe fermentation practices. Once you start, it’s hard to stop.
Recipe: Roasted capsicum pasta sauce
By now you may have gathered that I have a slight obsession with capsicums. When they’re plentiful and affordable, we buy in bulk.
We roast trays of them alongside garlic and onion until they’re soft, blistered and sweet, then blend everything into a silky sauce. It feels indulgent but costs very little. The best part? It freezes beautifully in zip-lock bags, ready to be pulled out for a quick midweek pasta or spread over homemade pizza.
INGREDIENTS
2 capsicums (red or yellow)
4 garlic cloves, skin on
1 onion, peeled and quartered
Olive oil
Salt and pepper
Optional: ⅓ cup feta cheese, fresh herbs, Parmesan
METHOD
Preheat your oven to 220°C (200°C fan). Place the whole capsicums, garlic cloves and onion on a baking tray. Drizzle generously with olive oil and season well with salt. Roast for 20–30 minutes, until the vegetables are soft and slightly charred at the edges.
Once the vegetables are cool enough to handle, remove the capsicum stems and seeds and squeeze the soft garlic from its skins. Blend the roasted vegetables with the feta, if using, and season to taste.
Recipe: Classic pesto
This summer our basil went wild. Rather than letting it flower and fade, we turned it into jars of pesto for the freezer.
If you don’t have basil, other greens work beautifully too – spinach, rocket, even carrot tops.
Makes: 1 small jar; Time: 15 minutes
INGREDIENTS
100g fresh basil leaves
10g cashew nuts
10g Parmesan cheese, grated
1 small garlic clove
40g olive oil
A splash of cold water, if needed
Salt, to taste
METHOD
Bring a small pot of salted water to the boil. Blanch the basil leaves for 30 seconds, then transfer immediately into ice-cold water. This simple step locks in that vibrant green colour.
Squeeze the basil thoroughly to remove excess water. Blend with the cashews, Parmesan, garlic and olive oil until smooth. Add a tiny splash of cold water if needed to loosen the mixture. Taste and adjust seasoning.
Store in a clean jar in the fridge for up to three days, or freeze in ice cube trays for easy portions.
Final tip: Summer compote is the best way to rescue the 'almost' fruit
Not every piece of fruit needs to be picture-perfect. Soft peaches or overripe berries can be gently simmered with a little sugar to create a compote.
Store in sterilised jars and use spooned over yoghurt, porridge, pancakes or ice cream. It also transforms a simple cake into something special.
Seasonal cooking isn’t restrictive. It’s resourceful. And in a year where grocery bills still make us wince, that feels like a habit worth building.
Chef Alice Taylor posts cooking videos as @alicetayloreats on Instagram, Facebook, YouTube and TikTok.
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