Auckland chef Henry Onesemo took his Samoan flag to Milan for the Best Chef Awards, proud to represent his roots on the world stage.
"I even took my little Samoan flag and I busted it out every chance I could," he says. "It was very humbling... meeting the Mount Rushmores of cooking... it was such an amazing experience."
His restaurant TALA, which he co-owns with his wife Debby Onesemo, was awarded a "knife" at The Best Chef Awards in Milan, making Onesemo the only Samoan chef to receive that honour.
"It reinforces that Sāmoan food has a place on the world stage," he says. "We stuck to our guns being specifically Samoan. It wasn’t as marketable as 'Pacific', but it feels good that it’s now part of that conversation."
The ranking, decided by nearly a thousand members of the culinary community, rate restaurants from one to three knives.
"You can’t buy your way in," he says. "People have to eat your food and vote."
TALA was invited after being nominated through The Best Chef’s global voting system. Onesemo says it felt like "a long shot", but he couldn’t turn it down.
"We didn’t even know if we were going to get a knife or not. Usually, just being invited was a huge thing for us. So when the one knife was announced and we got one, like, it was such a surreal moment... it’s very humbling."
To make the trip, the couple approached Tātaki Auckland Unlimited (TAU), Auckland Council’s economic and cultural development agency, which provided a $2000 travel grant covering part of their costs.
"We reached out to a few agencies and TAU was one of the only ones that helped," he says. "It gave us confidence that someone saw value in what we were doing, that telling stories through food can actually be good for the economy, bringing people into the city and into New Zealand."
Karen Thomson-Smith, TAU’s Head of Tourism, says the support recognised how TALA promotes Auckland’s identity abroad.
"Tātaki Auckland Unlimited made a small contribution ($2000) toward Henry’s travel to Milan.
"We saw this as an opportunity to support a chef whose work strongly aligns with promoting Auckland’s story on a global stage.
"Tāmaki Makaurau is the world’s largest Māori and Pacific city, and people are increasingly travelling here specifically to experience its restaurants and food scene."
Thomson-Smith says TALA’s recognition shows how Auckland’s creative and cultural sectors can drive tourism.
"Through initiatives like Iconic Auckland Eats, we highlight the people and flavours that make the city unique,” she says. “Pasifika flavours play a vital role in shaping Auckland’s food identity."
'An amazing food destination'
Support from TAU is both practical and symbolic for Onesemo.
"They see the value in investing in a food scene that, if it thrives, could make Auckland an amazing food destination."
He says many chefs overseas have strong backing from tourism boards and local governments.
"Some of these chefs have full backing from their boards of tourism and media travelling with them.
"Seeing TAU’s support gives me hope that Auckland can become that kind of food destination too."
Lotu Fuli, Manukau ward councillor, says TALA’s global recognition shows how local government investment can elevate Pacific excellence.
"I’m so proud of them. They’re very grassroots, the chef is Samoan-born and has worked his way up.
"TALA probably speaks to a certain audience, but big ups to him because that puts our cuisine on the global stage."
She says Auckland Council and local boards already support Pasifika entrepreneurs and can grow that reach.
"Our boards have been doing that kind of work for a while, like the vendor-licensing programme through the Ōtara-Papatoetoe Local Board. That came from knowing people had side hustles selling cakes or crafts but needed help to make them legitimate businesses."
Despite the international spotlight, Onesemo says Pacific representation in professional kitchens remains thin.
"Right now, I only have one Samoan in my kitchen," he says. "She started as a dishwasher and now she’s a chef. Not everyone gets that chance."
He believes local government could help by creating mentorships, grants and exchange programmes.
"There needs to be easier access to funding to motivate Pacific chefs to be in the kitchens," he says. "If we can bring students through and even send them overseas to learn, that’s how we’ll get that next superstar chef."
Onesemo once spent three months as a stagiaire under Samoan chef Michael Meredith, an opportunity most young cooks can’t afford today.
"If there were grants to help people gain that experience, we’d see more Pacific chefs coming through."
As TALA turns two, Onesemo and wife Debby remain focused on refining the guest experience and sharing Samoan hospitality.
"It’s about creating something that tells stories, but also leaves something for the next generation coming up," he says.
LDR is local body journalism co-funded by RNZ and NZ On Air.
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