Archaeologists say a small stone vial discovered among looted and recovered artefacts in southeastern Iran contains a red cosmetic that is "probably the earliest" example of lipstick — dating back some 4000 years.
The rare find is one of the first examples of an ancient, red-coloured cosmetic to be scientifically documented and analysed, researchers reported last month in the journal Scientific Reports.
Radiocarbon dating places the pigment in the early 2nd millennium, a date researchers say is compatible with mentions of a "powerful" Iranian civilisation known as Marḫaši in Mesopotamian texts.
Crafted from a greenish chlorite schist, the small cylindrical vial is "distinct" and "unlike any other similar object currently known".
More than 80% of the sample was found to be made up of minerals that produce a deep red colour, chiefly hematite. It also contained manganite and braunite, which have dark hues, as well as trace amounts of other minerals and substances derived from vegetables.
"Both the intensity of the red colouring minerals and the waxy substances are, surprisingly enough, fully compatible with recipes for contemporary lipsticks," the study authors noted.
Presence of red colouring and shape of the vial point to its purpose
While it was not possible to exclude other uses of the cosmetic, lead study author archaeologist Massimo Vidale said the red colour, compounds used, and the shape of the vial "suggested to us it was used on lips."
He also said it was unclear why cosmetics resembling lipstick were uncommon in the archaeological record.
"We have no idea, for the moment. The deep red colour we found is the first one we met, while several lighter-coloured foundations and eye shadows had been identified before,” he told CNN.
Archaeology professor Joann Fletcher said that the use of hematite had been documented in stone cosmetic palettes from the late Neolithic period, as well as in ancient Egypt.
“It is possible the contents of the vial were used as a lip colour. But they could also have been applied to give colour to the cheeks, or for some other purpose, even if the vial looks like a modern lipstick tube,” said Fletcher, who was not involved in the research, in an email to CNN.
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