Sam Low's family might not bother with a tree, but there are no half measures with their Christmas Day feast. The one-time MasterChef New Zealand winner, food writer and award-winning barista tells Sharon Stephenson how the day plays out.
I worked in the coffee industry and spent four years living in Melbourne and Vancouver. So I’ve had a few different types of Christmas.
Our family Christmases are a mix of traditional Chinese and Western influences. Mum will supply the protein such as a ham or a leg or lamb which I’ll help her marinate. Dad will make dishes such as giant shrimp with noodles, which symbolise luck and prosperity, and usually a whole roasted fish. Mum will make her famous warm potato dish – a cross between mashed potatoes and a potato salad. We also have a barbecue and I’ll prepare a trifle for dessert because Mum loves trifle at Christmas.
Christmas day is one long lunch from about 11am till 4pm. It’s usually only my parents, two brothers, sister-in-law and niece and nephew, so there’s always way too much food.
My parents don’t drink alcohol so Dad will whip up sweet Chinese herbal tea which helps to cool the body because eating so much protein can be inflammatory. We also have Coke Zero on the table.
My parents will offer the dishes to our ancestors at their shine before we eat. It’s a ritual about thanking our ancestors for the year that has passed and looking towards the future. I grew up with that tradition and will join in during Christmas lunch.
I usually host a couple of friend group dinners a week or two before Christmas. I’ll start prepping for those well in advance, including making the sauces and condiments such as salsa verde and seasoned butter and freezing them. It saves so much time. This year I’m toasting nori sheets before crushing them and mixing them with butter and smoked salt. I’m also throwing a DIY bao bun party where I’ll supply lots of different fillings.
I used to be extremely overweight as a kid but these days I’ve very aware of what I put into my body and if I do have a binge then the next day I’ll eat healthily, things like steamed veggies or broth. Having said that, Christmas is a day I do like to indulge. Being food drunk can be a lot of fun.
We don’t do Christmas decorations in my family anymore. Mum and Dad’s fake tree has definitely had its day. But we do exchange small gifts. This year my parents kept hinting about hearing all the aunties at Yum Cha raving about their air fryers so I’ve bought them one. I’m not a good gift receiver, though, because if there’s anything I need I would probably already have bought it.
My saving tip this Christmas is to shop at farmers markets or Asian grocers, because the produce is usually cheaper and in season. And if you see your protein of choice, say lamb, on sale then buy it and stick in the freezer. For things such as cranberry sauce, canned or frozen does the job just as well as fresh.
I’m a big fan of asking guests to bring a dish because there’s no shame in asking for help. Tell them what you're making, though, so the menu is cohesive. Also ask them to bring utensils such as serving spoons and tongs if you need them. And have a drinks station with home-made cordial, spirits and soda, ice and garnishes so that guests can help themselves which frees you up to cook.
I like to make home-made condiments for gifts. I make jam, big batches of chilli oil and smoked salt in jars that I give to everyone who comes for dinner.
Mariah Carey’s All I Want for Christmas would have to be my favourite seasonal song. Not so much when I hear it played in the supermarket in September but when I listen to it at home I’m reminded that it really is a lovely song.
It’s not really Christmassy but every year about this time I like to watch the 2004 film Mean Girls. It’s become a cult classic because it’s so funny and relatable. I especially connect to its universal themes of identity and trying to fit in.
Both excellent additions to your Christmas table, Sam's smashed cucumber salad is here and his saucy eggplant is here.
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